City of Sails and Windy Welly

Right now we are sailing from the north to the south island of New Zealand. Sun setting and while Carlos watches for whales I’ve just thought that we almost haven’t talk about the cities in New Zealand. Is not that they are boring is just that the country side, beaches, lakes and mountains are so amazing that we rather share about that. Anyway…

Auckland, the biggest city. Beautiful place and geographically blessed. It has two harbors that frame a narrow area full of volcanic cones and fertile farmland. Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean comes really close to each other at some points. Numerous marinas give it the nickname of the “City of Sails”.  Was fun to buzz around the cafes and bars of Ponsonby and K’ road and go up the Sky-Tower to have the best panoramic views of the city. We walked the scenic Tamaki drive to Mission Bay as all the citizens do on weekends but we didn’t had the chance to visit the nearby wild islands.

Wellington, cultural and politic capital, known as Windy Welly ‘cause force winds normally blowing. Beautiful, waterfront and surrounded by hills, it’s a family-friendly city, full of art-houses, bars (we had the best kumara fries ever), cafes, boutiques and restaurants. Te Papa, the national museum, mixes history and modern technology. There’s surf close to the city too. We’ve surfed Lyall Bay, right next to the airport. Waves small and unpowerful and cold water but always better than nothing.

Forgotten World and Surf 45 Hwy

We are not gonna forget the drive through the forgotten World Highway. That’s a road between Taumarunui and Stratford. The drive winds through hilly bush country, passing many heritage Maori sites. It took us almost four to drive 150km. After every curve we found some secret corner making us stop. Small hidden waterfalls, hundreds of sheep in the hills, one way tunnels, stunning landscapes, the most fresh and clean air ever breath, the loneliness of the drive… All that made it magic and unforgettable.

We arrived to New Plymouth under a heavy rain. The surf for next day was supposed to be good so we went sleep early. Still raining in the morning and the surfed messed by the wind. Carlos surfed classic Fiztroy but as it was insanely crowded we drove south along the Surf Hwy 45. All along the way you have good surf beaches, mostly isolated and surrounded by farmlands and tractors.  We checked most of them but the surf conditions were bad; windy and messy everywhere. So unluckly we still have been surfing much but we had the best mixed berries organic ice cream ever and walked under the rain in Mt. Taranaki jungle forest. It’s clear that in New Zealand there are many good surfing spots but you really need to know where and when to go depending on swell, wind and tide conditions.

Rotorua, deeply alive.

Our surf was worth it sacrified for visiting the heartland of Maori culture. In Rotoura´s district 35% of the population are Maori, some of them still live on the Whakarewarewa Thermal village where we learnt a bit about their culture, food, celebrations and the Ta Moko, the art of tattoo. Although was kind of prepared for the tourist, was really interesting.

          

There are 16 lakes in the vicinity of Rotoura, all of them formed from craters of extinct volcanoes.  But the subterranean is still alive and the proof of it are steaming hot springs, explosive geysers, bubbling mud pools and the clouds of sulphurous gas responsible for the town’s unique eggy smell. We visited the thermal reserve Wai-O-Topu, meaning “Sacred Water” and  we were astonished by the landscape and the kaleidoscopic colours of the pools. Check the pictures to get an idea.

From Rotoura we drove to the Central Plateau, where a vast water-filled crater is Taupo’s Lake, the largest in New Zealand.  Near by there is the Tongariro National Park with three massive peaks. We had the intention of doing an alpine crossing but it was raining like hell so we move on to Taranaki.

It's time to smile.

Sitting in a funny cafe in Rotoura it has came to our minds some particular things that we have found on our way and that have suprised us. The list follows:

· One bridge lanes, even in highways, so you hav to stop and give away
· Super clean public toilets( even the remote ones). Always paper on it.
· Liquor ban in public places.
· Not tolls!!! All roads free.
· Happy cows everywhere. True.
· Fresh fruit and vege shops on the highway.
· Pinky sheep. Ready to rock!
· Not much kiwis around (either the fruit or the animal). Thanks God 'cause Carlos is allergic to it.
· Speed restrictions to 100 both on curvy roads and motoways.
· Funny mail boxes everywhere.

Don't miss pictures below.  :-)

from Raglan with aroha (love)

A few days ago an earthquake shaked Christchurch in the south island of New Zealand. It’s been a big disaster with almost a hundred of death, still hundreds of people disappeared and lots of damage. The whole country has been shocked. We are still in the north island where everything is ok. Thanks to all the people that has worried about us. We are lucky to continue with our travels, explores, fun and surfing and he hope all the best for people affected by the quake.

When we wrote this post It had already been three days in Raglan…and finally were two more.  This small laid back coastal town surrounded by green countryside is a good vibes and swell magnet! Not being high season right now, Raglan is a quiet place, where people go from cafes, to surf, to bar… quite simple and easy life.

The day we arrive the surf was double overhead what keept us out of the water. Anyway, just being a spectator was impressive. We surfed the following day on Manu Bay, which is one of the three world-class spot in New Zeland . Well, Carlos did and got the best left-handed wave till the moment. I was just paddleing out when big waves coming… J  .  

We ‘ve just made a stop in Whangamatha where the surf was pretty good and where I found by chance Ferran, a friend that I met in Byron a year ago.  Was nice to see that he continues with his travels too.

Our next stop is Rotoura which remain strongholds of Maori tradition and history.  So on the road again on the search of kiwis .

by the sea.

One of the things we are loving more is that no matter where you are in New Zeland, you are never more than 128km far from the sea.

And it's been that sea what is giving us the most rewarding moments. We have to thank one of them to Lilly and her bf Matty who took us to one secret spòt on the west coast. It was after driving on a rough road for 30 minutes and walking with our surfboards down a hill for another 20 that we found ourselves in a beautiful insolated beach with perfect lines on the horizon.

The waves were small but breaking perfectly! It was a fun session but the day was not over. Lilly and Matty took us back Auckland for dinner but before they told us that they had to make a stop in the church. Even though we felt a bit sceptic bout it, as we went into the church we realise that it has nothing to do with our traditional church. It's better describe as a social meeting where everyone can go, dressed as they like, to sing and listen a gospel band, and share or ask help at the comunnity. It was really interesting to be part of one of their social routines. Lilly and Matty were really friendly and nice to us and we look forward seeing them soon.

Days of small funny waves, scenic drives, breakfasts by the sea and dinners under the full moon are starting to be our rutine.

On our way to the far north, as the surf was too messy, we made a stop in Bay of Islands, where we sailed thruogh pristine waters until the first island with european footprints. The day was windy and sunny so the sail was fun and dolphins joined us at half way. It was completely worth it.

We reached Cape Reigna (northest point) after visiting the Ninety mile beach and the huge dunes, where people do sandsurfing. There we found the point where the Tasmanian sea meets the Pacificic see, a place of magical power for the maori.

Aotearoa

Aotearoa; That’s  the maorí name for New Zeland.  Meaning the land of a long white cloud gives you an idea of what you can expect.

 It’s already been five days here and despite visa problems, still missing bag, battery’s runs out and bee bites…we feel like being in the paradise. Everything is just wonderful.  The light is more alive than anywhere else, making everything even more beautiful. Every km we drive or every walk we do it’s a gift.

             

 Unspoilt beaches, like black-sanded Karekare or surf Piha beach where we spend the first night and our first surf attempt was frustrated by an heli rescue of one surfer on the early morning. 

             

               

We made a quick visit to cosmopolitan Auckland to buy some basics before heading to Coromandel Peninsula searching for surf . The spectacular scenery we found in the way left us stoked.  Lush vegetation of an uncountable range of greens and tree types, that leaded us to the Hot Water Beach, voted one of the top ten most beautiful beaches in the world. We had our first surf there.  It was small but we were completely alone and was the perfect first surf after four months. It was warm so I surfed in bikinis . So good to feel the water on my skin again.  

            

                                           

We slept in uncrowded Opoutere, but the surf in the morning was not good so we took and long walk through the beach and saved a bird on the way. Next stop has been Whangamata, where we just went out the water. Quite messy and difficult to get into the peak, was a good second training session.